Growing grapes organically has become increasingly important. At its core is the noble idea that we are the custodians of the earth; we have no right to damage the planet and, in fact, farmers have the obligation to farm sustainably. At worst, do no damage; at best, take steps to heal the planet. We have to be realistic too, meaning all of this must take place in a way that does not make wine growing financially unsustainable. Financial sustainability can perhaps be enhanced. What if organic farming practices can be made cheaper and lead to better, more healthful, more valuable wines?
Beautifully manicured and tended vineyards are not natural, did not exist that way in nature. At every level, man has manipulated his environment to produce, in this case, wine grapes. We clear vegetation, we ameliorate soils, we develop better clones of grape varieties, we graft vines before planting, we drain water, we install irrigation, we trellis, we plant cover crops. We have disturbed the balance of nature and now we are stuck with the results; man must continue to intervene to produce suitable crops. How do we do this responsibly and sustainably? Organic agriculture has been part of the response; mainly to attempt the elimination of chemicals such as sprays, herbicides and weed killers. Many insect sprays killed beneficial and harmful insects alike. Today, increasing use is being made of, for example, leafhopper control being provided by spiders and mites, and mealy bug control by lady bugs and wasps. This, of course, precludes the use of chemical sprays that kill indiscriminately. So, we understand the goal and direction of organic viticulture; where does biodynamic viticulture enter the equation?
Biodynamic agriculture is based on the teachings of Rudolf Steiner, an Austrian. Steiner wrote or coauthored many books and gave many courses and lectures. Some of his writings and lectures have been compiled into books, including one entitled: “What is Biodynamics? A way to Heal and Revitalize the Earth.” Biodynamics looks at the farm or garden as a self-contained organism existing in a larger world of critical spiritual energies. The aim is to improve the health of the whole, including that of the gardener and consumer. Steiner aimed to do this through the use of homeopathic preparations. All this being said, biodynamic viticulture can be seen as a subset of organic viticulture. In essence, in a simplistic way, biodynamics is a spiritual approach to organics. According to the website of the Biodynamic association, “Biodynamics Works in Rhythm with Earth and Cosmos.” “Biodynamic farmers and gardeners observe the rhythms and cycles of the earth, sun, moon, stars, and planets and seek to understand the subtle ways that the environment and wider cosmos influence the growth and development of plants and animals. Biodynamic calendars support this awareness and understanding by providing detailed astronomical information and indications of optimal times for sowing, transplanting, cultivating, harvesting, and using the biodynamic preparations.”
I was first exposed first hand to biodynamics at the farm, Cooper Mountain, in Oregon’s Willamette Valley. Dr. Bob Gross was inspired by the possibility of looking after the land, healing the earth and producing better, healthier products. I started out as a Civil Engineer, pretty much a skeptic. If I can’t see it, how can I believe it? All of a sudden I’m being asked to believe in mumbo jumbo; cow horns filled with manure from cows raised organically on the property, buried at a specific site in the vineyard according to a specific solar or lunar rhythm and then exhumed, again at a specific time according to solar or lunar rhythms. Finally, homeopathic preparations are made from the contents and applied to the vineyards. A bit of a stretch, don’t you think? I started to ask questions; “Why biodynamic, why not simply organic?” I also began to try to taste biodynamic wines.
Some years ago there were a couple of annual tastings of biodynamic wines in the USA. They were entitled, as I recall; “A return to Terroir.” The basic premise, which I at first considered to be hubris and self-serving, was that if you farmed conventionally, or even conventionally organically, you were not being truly solicitous of your unique terroir. There were some famous vignerons there, Nicolas Joly of la Coulee de Serrant in France’s Loire region, whose property has been biodynamic since 1984 and, Aubert de Villaine, well known for his work at Domaine de la Romanee-Conti (DRC). Aubert has a property A. & P. de Villaine, that is biodynamically farmed. It so happened that these gentleman were chatting when I approached them and asked the question: “Why biodynamics? Why not just organic?” Both men responded, in essence, that to extract the best from vineyards, to most faithfully reflect terroir, biodynamics is a must. Aside from all the treatments, themselves products of the terroir, biodynamics provides them with a calendar and rhythm that helps organize their work in the vineyards and in such a way that it had maximum beneficial effect!
So, where am I now? I taste the wines; generally speaking they are good, very good. There is something very positive there, not a specific taste but an elevated quality. Vineyards that have been biodynamic for many years tend, in my opinion, to produce wines that are less overtly varietal and more something else…. It is as if the terroir is asserting itself and some of the varietal character is subsumed into terroir expression. The vineyards are healthy with soils that are alive with earthworms and other signs of health. Producers assure me that their vineyards are more resilient to heat and water stress than previously, that the vineyards are more balanced and happy. I worked with one producer who assured me his wines, after opening, do not oxidize for months. I tried it for a few weeks and I had to agree. I am mindful of the fact that passionate producers, this committed to products, their environment and the planet will make better wine, even if they farmed conventionally! In the final analysis, I have become a believer simply due to the quality in the bottle!
Want to try a wine from a biodynamic producer (the estate was not certified biodynamic at the time)?
Please click on the bottle below.
Selected by Peter Koff MW
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